I live in Ambelos on Samos Island, Greece. It is a small village of less than 200 people, many of whom are old. There are not so many farmers here now but most villagers have land and can grow much of their food. There are plenty of chickens around. Its outstanding feature is its location in a place of beautiful nature. This quality cannot be under-estimated for its positive impact on our well-being.
Two and half years ago the village was hit by an earthquake ( 7 on the Richter scale). All of us in the village were terrified and then shocked by the experience.It now feels that the earthquake has returned but worse than before as there is no end in sight. There is much fear here. Again and again our neighbours talk of winter as a coming nightmare. They are frightened that they won’t be able to pay for their heating especially as so many here have only summer season work with little income in the winter.
But that is not their only worry.
The weather is changing. We now get more extremes, such as March this year which was not only dry but extremely cold for weeks. Then in May we had many days of over 30 degrees. As with other parts of southern Europe we are now getting less late winter rain so when the hot weather arrives the earth is dry. Not good for growing but excellent for wild fires. And then there are unusual episodes of harsh weather (hard rain) which cause great damage to the vineyards. Climate change is here and looks threatening to current agricultural practices.
For a generally poor village the high and increasing cost of petrol (2.40 euros today) is terrible. We have no shop now. We have not had a bus service for years. Car journeys are now measured by cost. So at the moment our nearest shop is 2.40 euros away not 5km. For those with jobs in the nearby towns of Vathi and Karlovassi the daily car cost (just petrol) is between 7 and 10 euros and increasing every week. In other villages in the centre and on the south coast the costs are much higher given their distance from the 2 main towns. We have yet to see what will happen.
Most of the fear about surviving the winter has come about due to the 79% increase in the price of electricity this year and the knowledge that it is going to increase again soon. But as the petrol costs highlight this is just one of many pressures driving poverty deeper. Inflation is now running at 10%. Basic food is more expensive week by week. Vegetables are up by over 14% from a year ago, olive oil is up by over 15% and certain types of meat are more than 17% higher. And the poorest 20% of the population who spend around 66% of their budget on household bills and food are hit the hardest. “The gap between the have-nots and the rest of the society is widening, and what we are seeing is shocking….it has us very worried (Constantine Dimtsas, director of Apostoli, Greece’s largest charity, Feb 2022).
And it goes on. Farmers and gardeners are confronting massive increases in the price of fertilizers and weedkillers. “Last year we were paying 500 euros a ton for fertilizer. Now it’s if we’re buying a piece of land. It’s 1,700 to 1,800 euros.” ( Dimitris Kakalis, farmer central Greece, AP News Feb 17 2022) He continued, “ The spike in energy prices and its ripple effects, touch every part of my vineyard and peach grove business and at these prices we are headed for ruin.”
With others on Samos, my sense is that these growing costs combined with the low income small scale farmers take for their effort is going to be profound. The majority of the farmers are over 65 years old. They can afford little in terms of employing help. To meet these difficulties many farmers now care only for the land they can access easily by truck with more remote land abandoned. They also use, sadly, massive amounts of weedkiller sprays to manage their vineyards. How are the vines to flourish if they are overwhelmed by weeds because the farmer has neither the time or money to keep his land clean? These are the questions now confronting many and we know that there will be more to come as the climate changes and traditional methods of farming and growing your food become no longer sufficient or even viable.
Much is unclear and uncertain now but one thing that is widely shared in the village is that there is little hope of help from those who hold power. Government both locally and centrally are seen as inept and corrupt and out of touch with the realities facing the people. One recent example here is that the biggest construction project on the island was the building and opening (Sept 2021) of the new camp/prison for refugees. Our Guantanamo can accommodate over 3000 refugees and cost over 30 million euros. Much to the delight of the government there are now only 380 refugees in the camp and that number will be further reduced. Why such a big and expensive camp when the policy is to empty the islands of refugees?
The extravagances of the state at a time when so many people are struggling to survive are in our eyes daily. Endless small convoys of army trucks and jeeps on our roads, often empty. Navy vessels racing up and down the coast every morning. War planes routinely patrolling. The people here can no longer afford to fill their cars !
On Samos the labour market is dominated by tourism and its associated hotels, cafes, bars and restaurants. Pay is low and hours are long in many of these jobs. Last summer the Covid pandemic meant that as tourism closed down many no longer had jobs and little money but they had a summer! They could now go to the beach, swim and relax. Many have decided not to go ‘back to the galleys’ as they describe it and so now we have hotels and bars here desperate for staff. This is happening all over Greece now in part reflecting that 92% of all new businesses that were opened between 2010 and 2020 were in the food and beverage sector! (Financial Times June 22, 2021). Now, more and more people are demanding that any return to working in that sector will only come when they feel respected by their bosses which means not working up to 16 hours a day, seven days a week during the season. It is no longer simply a matter of pay levels.
Many in Ambelos know that bad developments are taking place in many places across the world now. We are not alone. Yet the local media on the island (e.g. Samos Voice) are virtually silent about how the islanders are being effected or how they are managing. Indeed much here is ignored by the press. For example at the beginning of June I sat in the yard looking over the sea and saw a convoy of over 20 Turkish naval vessels accompanied by a submarine sail and then stop at what I assumed was the sea border with Greece. They stayed for around half an hour before turning back. There were no Greek naval boats in the area. This took place whilst Erdogan, the Turkish president was in Izmir demanding that Greece should de-militarise the border islands such as Samos. This convoy came from Izmir. For me it was a clear message. But, not a mention of it in either the local or national papers. Not a single word. Why?
Change is under way and more will come as the pressures deepen and stay. What will be we don’t know. We can be sure though that the local media will not be a source of information as to what people are doing on the island, which could give hope and ideas to others. Many here have lost confidence after years of economic crises and poverty. This is something that demands attention for it is becoming ever more evident that the way forward will never come from the top or from outside, but must be driven and managed by those who know what is happening and that is themselves. This is a global truth. Look where the elites and powerful of the world have taken us over history. Their destructive greed has taken every one of us to the precipice of having no future. If we are to have any future we need fundamental changes.
But what a challenge! Especially when so many people are battered and lack confidence. We need inspiration and ideas. We must explore our past which has too often been ignored by the elites because they don’t want us to remember. For example Greece was amazing during the Nazi invasion of the Second World War. It was the only occupied country which stopped forced labour after huge protest marches through the centre of Athens with hundreds mowed down day after day by the German troops on the roof tops. Every church bell rang in support. And the Nazis gave way.By 1943 the vast majority of the country was in the hands of the people with the Nazi power concentrated only in Athens and Thessaloniki. And in the countryside wonderful and powerful changes were underway with women coming to the fore on every dimension from the home to the rifle. The so called allies, principally the British state recognised the threat this posed for the future of a monarchical Greece with the old elites restored to power. Their antagonism led to the catastrophe of the civil war and decades of oppression of anyone deemed to be a communist. And it goes on. None of this for example is discussed in schools here to this day. We do not lack sources of strength but we must find and explore them.
In the past few weeks I have met two people in their thirties who have moved from Athens to the village below Ambelos. They had had decent jobs but no more. They strongly believed that they would be better living on Samos than in Athens now. At least they would be able to grow some of their food! But they were full of ideas about what could be done here and were excited. This is no isolated example as thousands of young people have left Athens and Thessaloniki over the past 5 years and returned often to the villages where their families have houses and land. From what I have read, many of these people are innovative and creative in what and how they farm; they work more collectively; they are often organic and so on. I wouldn’t be surprised if there aren’t such people on Samos, but here in Ambelos we don’t know. We need to see it and not just read about it.
Things are going to change in so many ways. Of that I am certain. Whether it can be on the scale needed is unknown. But there are more than a few signs that we are changing in some good ways. Two days ago the young male mechanic in the village garage told me that his house building project was finished. He paid for the materials but all the work was done freely by his friends. In return he cares for their vehicles. This will happen more as we deal with surviving he told me. And he told me that in his networks with young guys they no longer spend all their time talking about football or music but about all the shit in the world now and would they have children? He believes that we will see more and more people coming together as the poverty deepens. His big hope is that we get going before it gets even worse.
Like me he doesn’t know . But like me and so many others he is thinking hard.
(As always my piece has been much improved by Tony and encouraged by Ali.
Thank you.)